i surfed for 2 hours in the morning and had fun. it was crowded and not that many waves so everybody had to wait their turn. Bowls was beautiful as usual!
then i went back in the afternoon. i paddled out, caught my first wave which connected me into 4 longer waves. then i continued to ride that same wave back to the beach. that took me a total of 15 minutes and i had a much better workout than the morning, and much more satisfied too…
i saw this cool classic custom VW. it was a 1968 VW Fastback that was totally customized. it was love at first sight!
the guys cut off the back and made it into a truck. ummm. now i really want one! haha.
when i was walking at Magic Island yesterday, i saw something weird. i got closer and noticed it was moving! it was a little turtle!!!
the turtle was trying to walk onto the street. i watched it for 30 minutes and didn’t know what to do? is it someones pet? is it endangered? is it even legal? i was so confused and thought i’d just let it be free. so i said bye and walked away…
FUKENGRUVEN… i love it!
