when i travel, i never ever check the waves or surf report in Hawaii. so when i got back to Hawaii yesterday, i wasn’t expecting to surf at all. a brand new South Swell is here! so lucky!!!
when the sets came, it was solid head high. this is Grandpa Pat along with Diamond Head in the barrel. this is so beautiful. 
Malcom never misses a wave. he’s always on the right board. 
i’m super happy to be back home. started off my day with kombucha, yoga, exercise, breakfast, followed by a surf, then a nap. traveling makes me happy, but so does this…
then i went to play with the kids. Kaira and Keahi showed me the way to the mountain stream. then they threw rocks and sticks at me. haha. i love these kids!!!
