Japan Legends

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i was very impressed on how they rebuilt the coastline in Sendai.  better view from up top, better parking lot, nice clean toilets, and it seems like the vibe is a lot more friendly now.  Tokura-san took me to Sendai 30 years ago and it’s cool to be back there 30 years later with him.  

Wataru is the Toru-san’s son.  he wasn’t even born when i first went to Sendai.  i got to see this kid grow up into a fine young man.  really quite, very calm, and a super respectful pro surfer.  i was happy to surf with him.  

it was so cool to hang out with two Legend surfers.  Tokura-san and Toru-san are respected everywhere they go.  the last time i got to sit down with Toru-san was when i couldn’t understand Japanese.  now i do so understanding him makes me respect him much more.  and Tokura-san basically taught me Japanese and everything about Japan.  i’m so grateful to have learned the proper way…       

we surfed in the morning.  beach breaks are so fun!  

and foiled in the afternoon.  river mouths are so fun!  Thank you Motoko-san for the photos.

a former pro surfer, a super mom, and a great photographer.  thank you again Toru-san and Motoko-san for your kindness…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide