i use to rent this little shack on the North shore right in front of Keiki Beach. a little room with a jaccuci right next to it. that was when life was really simple. i only surfed and i loved it!
i would go surf early, come back and make instant ramen, then go surf again. staying on the North shore made me want to surf more because it was so boring. haha. but that was my job so i wasn’t complaining at all.
i would sometimes surf some clean Backdoor days with nobody around. these are the days i would smile all day long.
then i’d go shoot my friends in the afternoons at V-Land. Hayato Maki on a sweet one.
have you ever seen a shark swim from the deep blue straight to you in attack mode? then right as they are about to attack you, they realize you’re not a turtle or seal and quickly turn away. whew, this was a close one.
i use to take my Hawaiian fishing lures to Indonesia and we use to always catch fish. even the girls…
