good evening. i had another long day and don’t want to be on my computer too long because tomorrow is going to be another long day. here’s a brief summary of my day. surf, surf, and surf….
felt like surfing somewhere else so i surfed rocky point. look how perfect it was. and get this, i paddled out and the only local out there was flynn novak. then he went is so it was pretty much catch a set, then catch another one. i’m glad i recharged my batteries because i had so much energy today…
it started to get crowded around 10am. i had enough already so i caught a wave to go in. pulled into a barrel, the broke my board. yeah, my first broken heart of the year. i mean board. TSSC, help!!!
had a bunch of japanese surfers out there catching a lot of waves. this is tetsu urayama on his last wave of the day…
i don’t want to sound cocky or anything. but i’ve been scoring so many good waves and seem to be in the best spot at the best time. today it was rocky point. and imagine it uncrowded. i was surprised myself….
seen my friend matt checking backdoor early morning. i told him rocky point will probably be good and he was already surfing when i pulled up. i hope he doesn’t think it’s like that every day. last month, there would have been 100 pro’s out there….
the media is getting crazy these days. you can’t hide from the cameras anymore. the surfing paparazzi has come….
even japanese surfer yasuko shinozuka caught a lot of waves out there. where the heck was everybody else?? anyway, more photos coming tomorrow. more waves coming tomorrow. more surfing coming tomorrow. more happiness coming tomorrow. see you tomorrow. good night…
