Full Commitment….

233

good morning. 6:30am tuesday. still got some waves on the south shore. came down but seen some waist/chest high sets. north shore came down too. it’s small out there but still looking fun. no winds now, nobody out now. i’m going surfing all day again today. i’m just wondering when my batteries are going to run out. i’m still going, going, and going…. see ya…

more shots from yesterday. keone nozaki’s surfing has gotten better every year. this kid has power and throws some big sprays….

the rocky point playground. looks fun yeah? in surfing, this is the easiest way to break your legs. don’t try this at home..

this was my best shot i took yesterday. why? because surfing has come a long way. when i use to surf rocky point in the 80’s, no girls surfed it. these days, it’s like blue crush out there. but it’s all good…

wait, this is actually my best shot yesterday. why? because i love to see young japanese kids come to hawaii and give it all they got. to me, kaishu tanaka is always surfing the best spots and the best time. just like me. haha. and all the north shore kids like kaishu. they said he’s a nice guy and surfs good. in a few years, kaishu will be blowing away his competition. just look at this snap at rocky rights. full commitment….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide