Wow, we were so lucky to get a small swell in town today. This swell came from the big West swell yesterday on the North shore. There were some chest size sets and the conditions were super perfect! I love these surprises!
Namikoshi-san got so lucky today because the waves were much bigger than expected. He was surfing the best I’ve ever seen him. Relaxed and very calm.
I was riding in front, on the side, and from the back. These angles are the best! Good surfing Namikoshi-san!
I came home right in time for Joshua’s heat at the Haleiwa Challenger. No stress today for me because Joshua dominated from the start. Very good surfing boy!
When these kids win their heats, I get so happy. But when they lose, I feel like throwing my Kombucha bottle at the TV. Today was happy.
It’s part of a professional surfers job to be able to handle an interview properly. Joshua use to be so shy but now he’s a confident man in TV.
I just love this kids smile. Good job Joshua! Good luck tomorrow!
