Hand Made

93

Pushing someone on a wave and then trying to catch that same wave is pretty challenging.  The timing has to be perfect and when it is, I can ride on the side, coach my student, and also take photos.  This time everything was going perfect until I yelled “LOOK FORWARD!” and then my student looked at me.  Yes, I’m on the left side and here she comes!  Ouch!

Before I went to Japan 32 years ago, my Grandpa Osaki gave me this little note and attached to it was $50.  I had no idea what it meant but now I do.  It’s the Japanese culture to give your kids or Grandkids spending money when going on a trip.  I kept this for 32 years because it reminds me of my Grandpa’s true Japanese spirit.  A sprit I continue to follow…

Grandpa built my house by hand.  Back then they didn’t have any of these power tools.  I don’t know what I would do without my power tools.  How did he do it all by himself?  I sit on my sofa looking around and I can imagine his hard work pounding every single nail with a hammer.  Thank you Grandpa!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide