I woke up and was planning to go to the North Shore. One part of me said “it’s going to be good, maybe I’ll try to get a barrel at Backdoor!” And another part of me said “um, crowded for sure and lots hungry pro surfers because the Pipeline Masters starts in a few days. Umm.” I listened to the other part of me and decided to “stay in town and fly like a bird.” Look how beautiful it was!
The waves and conditions were a carbon copy of yesterday. Absolutely perfect like a dream!
Doesn’t it look like Diamond Head is erupting??? Look at the cloud smoke coming out of the crater! Cool.
It was very peaceful this Saturday morning. Uncle Clarance and Uncle Paul talking story on the outside catching the best waves as they deserve to. They were telling me stories and we were all laughing like little kids. I’m glad I chose peace with the Uncles in town instead of war with the kids on the North Shore.
I’m practicing to get my foil out of the water on turns. You’re already going fast but when the tips pop out like this, there is a feeling of a fast release. It’s kind of like a turbo boost! I actually made this turn and pumped straight back to Mayuki, pulled anchor, and drove back the happiest man in the world!
