good wed. morning. 7:30am and i couldn’t get up early this morning. my eyes opened but my body didn’t want to move. but now i’m up so i’m getting ready to go surf. checking pipe now and it’s looking 2-4′ with 20 guys out. i’m wondering if they will run the backdoor shootout? if they do, i’m not going. if they don’t, um…. well, the swell in town is pretty much gone. still some ankle snappers and looking clean. bad weather coming again this weekend so get out and enjoy day 7 of 2009. see you somewhere around this island… have a nice day…
jeannie chesser sent me an email about a month ago saying that she was going to airbrush a surfboard for president obama. i thought she was joking. i was wrong. glenn pang shaped it, and jeannie did the hawaiian flag airbrush. sick!!! i hope president obama hangs this on the wall behind his desk in the white house. or better, i hope president obama uses it to surf someday. that would be awesome dude…
and last, wanted to say hello to a couple of people in japan. this is masashi-san’s beautiful daughter. so cute….
and wanted to say hello to hosaka-san over there in osaka. keep on traveling!! and keep on surfing!!!
**and last, been getting emails from youtube saying that i’m violating copyright laws by using artists songs with their permission. gosh, i swear i asked elton john, the cars, steel pulse, jason mraz, and others to use their songs in my videos. and they all said “shoots brah”. maybe i was dreaming…. anyway, here is one of the vids that got deleted by youtube. but now, it’s back uploaded using another artist. it’s just a matter of time when i get another email. oh well, life goes on… enjoy part 2 of the awesome trip to cloud 9 in 2007. it seemed like 10 years ago….
