welcome to jan. 6th 8pm. only 6 days in 2009 and it feels like a month already. the energizer bunny is keep on going, and going… 1st surf check..
diamond head at 8:30am. head high sets and pretty clean. lighthouse was the spot and everybody must have known because there were 15 guys out. forget that…
9am at bowls. the waves were pretty dam good. i was waiting for a set to take a photo when this couple started hugging on the beach. i thought that was pretty cool. the waves were chest high and super fun. not too many guys out but it got crowded towards the end. so there i was thinking where to go for a 2nd session. it was hot and the winds came onshore along with some dark clouds. i thought the north shore would be raining and onshore too but we went out anyway….
2pm at backdoor/pipeline. oh my gosh!!! i was wrong. the waves were perfect off shore and super sunny. and get this, bowls was more crowded then pipe. and i’m not joking. there were only 8 guys out. i paddled out and seen a brazilian boogie boarder and longboarder at the peak. yeah, no locals… i dragged imai-san out to his first session at the notorious pipeline and he caught some good waves. it was so shallow and i’m glad we both made it back to the beach alive… right place at the right time? yes, 6 days straight…. where the heck is everybody?
and wanted to thank kinsan for taking my new years barrel the other day at backdoor. 2009 new years day will be a day to remember for me. and so will the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th… like i said before. SURF YOUR DREAM and LIVE EACH DAY LIKE IT WILL BE YOUR LAST. i’m going to sleep because i can’t wait till tomorrow….
***and last, i’ve been getting so many emails recently that it’s almost impossible to keep up. i promise i will get back to everyone but it might take a while the way this year is going. i really don’t like to sit in front of my computer anymore. as you all know, i’d rather be outdoors. and i refuse to get an iphone. but there is one person that i’d like to take this time out to say hello too. his name is Jared Yoshio Katakura who’s a surfer/diver and who is hearing impaired. he contributes to the hearing impaired communities in hawaii and japan, which i think is awesome. he’s been reading my blog and telling his friends about it, friends like eiko-san. Jared, i hope we can meet sometime in the future. in fact, i know we will. keep up the good vibe and hope all your dreams come true. mahalo…
