Personal Boot Camp

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Today was like the first day of winter for me.  I know when I get to my truck early in the morning and the glass has mist on it.  It was a very chilly morning taking the long drive out to the country.  

Today was a day for my personal Boot Camp.  I went to a secret spot on the North shore that is very steep.  The waves were way overhead so I practiced over and over taking off on the steepest part of the wave.  I rode my 5’9 and worked on timing, my pop up, and did it over and over for 15 waves.  I succeeded by making every wave, but I still have to work on my timing.  Making the wave is one thing, but pulling into the barrel off the takeoff is another.  There is no room for error.  One more session and I’ll be there.   And like always, the drive back to town is happy.  Smiling and smelling the sweet pineapples all the way!!!  

Peter King sent me another photo from Jurassic’s.  Lots of jellyfish there so a 1MM top from Dove will get you covered.  Thank you PK for the photo, and thank you Dove Wetsuits for the protection!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide