Nap on the Sea

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We get these strong West winds only a couple times a year so it’s very interesting to see the ocean.  This is Magic Island and there were onshore waves in the lagoon!  It was pretty cold but these tourists didn’t care.  They must come from a very cold place.  

Bowls looked like a washing machine.  I was almost tempted to paddle out but it seemed like too much work.  I enjoyed just watching it.  

I didn’t see a single person in the ocean today.  I was telling my friend that if this were Japan, there would be surfers out for sure.  Of course he didn’t believe me. 

I got tired so pulled over and ate the best hamburger on the island.  Then I got more tired so I took a nap.  

A nap on the sea.  Lovely…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide