Going to do my blog backwards today.
After I caught my first wave, I knew it was going to be an amazing session. I haven’t surfed here in many years so it was good to reminisce the good old days. This spot is very challenging so you have to connect to the ocean or you will be lost at sea. So yes, I had my concentration face on. Haha.
Perfect waves, perfect conditions, and nobody around. I had the whole spot to myself!
When I checked the ocean in the morning, I saw the West swells still pretty strong, the onshore winds, and lots of energy. Diamond Head looked fun but it was already getting crowded. So I decided to go back to my Old School secret training grounds because the waves would be bigger, stronger, and nobody will be there.
