Indo Boat Trip: Searching for Treasure

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We were one of the first group of surfers that explored up the Banyak archipelago.   These islands were only accessible by boat so we had to take a boat from Padang, which took us about 40 hours to get to the Banyaks.  Back then, there were no other boats and not a single surf camp.  We had every spot to ourselves so nobody hassling for waves.  We also had a special group of surfers known as “The Niseko Snow Surfers.”  I was the photographer on that trip so I just surfed from behind the lens.  This is Gentemstick boss Taro Tamai on a perfect wave at Treasure Island.  He was carving the waves the same way he carves in the mountains.  It was so beautiful to see.   

When I wasn’t shooting photos, I was shooting fish.  It took us 2 days to get there and I remember arriving in the evening right before dark.  The boys went surfing and I went hunting for the evening sashimi platter.  The reefs up there were untouched so I was like walking into a fish market.  We had sashimi/Bintang parties every single night…

Then I went back there 10 years later and there were boats, surf camps, and lots of surfers.  The treasure has been found…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide