12 for 1

88

I was surprised how calm the ocean was today compared to yesterday.  The good thing is there were still some leftover wraparound West swells that was hitting certain spots. 

I passed by a spot where usually 30 guys are usually surfing and nobody was out.  The swells were chest high and there were about a hundred waves per hour.  I got super excited knowing what was about to happen. 

So I threw the anchor in, threw my foil in, and paddled my hardest to get my first wave.  My plan was to catch one wave and see how many I can connect into.   There were so many waves so I was hoping for at least 10 continuous waves.   

So I catch my first wave, pumped into another, and another, and another….  Next thing you know, I was on my 12th wave riding for over 3 minutes!  So after my 3 minute ride, I was totally exhausted.  I couldn’t even breath!  I was thinking that was enough but when I looked around and seen all these perfect waves coming right to me, I stayed out for another hour.  Today was one of my best foiling sessions of my life!  Score!

Then one of the locals drives by and says “eh, you like fruits?”  OMG, Merry Christmas to me!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide