Did you see the sunrise this morning? It was so beautiful! 
There are a few surf spots where I can go anytime and know I can have a peaceful session. It’s peaceful because the entry is very dangerous. So dangerous that nobody wants to take the risk. I’ve seen people get really hurt here, and I’ve seen people get their boards smashed on the rocks. If you look good, you can see me jumping off the rocks into an ocean full of rocks. Haha. I’ve had my fair share of cuts, bruises, and broken surfboards there. But the peacefulness always brings me back and will forever…
