If you look good, you can see me paddling for this wave at Backdoor. All those dots that look like ants are surfers. When I’m paddling, I can actually see guys scrambling all around. Every single wave at Backdoor, every body wants. So yes, it could be like war out there. I’m going right and Kahea Hart is going left. This is called “splitting the peak.” In that crowd of surfers, were some famous pro’s. Ezekiel Lau, Barron Mamiya, Mick Fanning, Yago Dora, Rio Waida, Eli Hanneman, Joshua Moniz, and many more. Pretty cool surfing with the boys.
It’s crazy that the take off spot is the exact same for the 35 years I’ve been surfing out there. I lineup with a pine tree and sit right above a patch of reef I’m familiar with and just wait. I rode a 6’6 Kerry Tokoro and it felt solid. I made every drop and no wipeouts so that’s success for me.
I’d never thought I’d still be getting barreled at Backdoor at 55 years old. I’m living in my bonus years so every experience out there is a bonus for my life. I’m super grateful for that.
