I was so happy about yesterday that I couldn’t sleep. I woke up at 3am and got to Backdoor in the pitch dark. I was the first one there but the waves looked a lot smaller than yesterday. So I went to Haleiwa, surfed my short board, and had a blast!
I was back on the highway at 7:30am heading back to town. I love to start my days early.
A long drive with my magic board in the back seat.
Since I had the rest of the day ahead, I started another home improvement project.
New paint for a fresh start.
Here’s another shot of my early morning session at Backdoor yesterday. It was still dark but I could still see the end of the dark tunnel…