thanks to the nice south swells we’ve been having, the summer here in hawaii just doesn’t want to end. why go north where there are waves on the south? we pulled up to bowls yesterday morning and things weren’t feeling right. the parking lot was full, there were surfers all over the place, and when i looked at the lineup, i must have seen 50 surfers out. no, no, and no. we jump back in the car, drive 10 minutes away, and surf a perfect wave with only a few surfers out. that was one of the best decisions i’ve made all summer long!
satoko and i pulled up in a nice reserved parking stall, opened the private gate, got ready on one of the most private beaches in hawaii, paddled out the clear water channel, and surfed a secret spot with only 1 other surfer. it was paradise, it was hawaii! yuki-san took this photo of us paddling out from one of the best condo on the island. paddling out, it was just another surfing day for me. but after yuki-san sent me this photo, it made me realize how beautiful hawaii is. i love this place!!!!
oh, if your wondering if the water is cold now. yes it is. a long sleeve top wetsuit is best. if your wondering when the north shore is going to have the first huge swell, it’s looking like december 8th. if it’s over 10′, i’m out there! i’ll surf, and i’ll shoot. where? PIPELINE!
as for the KCC farmers market, it was pretty cool to see so many people there enjoying the food and entertainment.
as for all the emails i’ve been getting, i’m get back to you all soon. as you all know, i’ve been kind of busy recently.
as for toda-san and takami-san, thank you for the extra big size jacksan. sorry i was sick and so busy in hawaii. i’m looking forward to mentawai in may! we can all relax and have another wonderful dream boat trip!
as for my life. i love it! i just wish there were 40 hours in a day.
