Wow, the waves were PERFECT this morning!!! Kawasaki-san and I had a great time surfing these perfect waves with perfect conditions. Look how beautiful his wave was!
Today is another day of the West swell wrapping around to Ala Moana. The waves are always tricky but if you found a good one like this, it’s great! Excellent surfing Kawasaki-san!
On the red magic board again feeling so free.
This huge turtle popped up right next to us. So cool!
Then we got stuck in the parking lot. The parade just started so the roads were closed. There was no way out of Bowls. It was a day of patience.
The winds backed off in the afternoon so I went to surf my secret spot. Nobody out and perfect waves. I caught as many waves as I wanted and had the ocean all to myself.
Then I headed up to the mountains to ride bike with Honouliwai. A very talented kid that is going to be a superstar of what ever he chooses to do in life…