I might say this over and over but today I’ll say it again. Today was another beautiful day in paradise! I went out today with one thing in mind “fly, surf, and flow.” From my very first wave, I felt so connected to the ocean. I hardly foil anymore so I feel a lot happier when I’m flying like a bird. I love it!
“Killing two birds with one stone” means achieving two things with one single action. So taking out Mayuki for a date and flying like a bird was just that!
Then my brother texts me “you should watch Chasing Waves on Disney+. it’s about Japanese surfers.” So I watched the first 10 minutes and was surprised! Just in the first 10 minutes, I saw so many surfers I know. Hiromichi Soeda is a legend!
Then Tokura-san comes on next! I was screaming to my TV “OMG, Tokura-san!” This man is my teacher, mentor, and my friend. If it wasn’t for Tokura-san, I would probably be unemployed or homeless. Or worst, I might even be in jail. Tokura-san encouraged me to chase my dream to surf as a living. Thirty years ago, that was like a joke to most people, but not for us. I can’t wait to watch the rest!
TO HONOR THE PAST, TO PERSUE A DREAM, TO FUEL THE SOUL. I love it all!