Disney+Chasing+Waves

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I might say this over and over but today I’ll say it again.  Today was another beautiful day in paradise!  I went out today with one thing in mind “fly, surf, and flow.”  From my very first wave, I felt so connected to the ocean.  I hardly foil anymore so I feel a lot happier when I’m flying like a bird.  I love it!   

“Killing two birds with one stone” means achieving two things with one single action.  So taking out Mayuki for a date and flying like a bird was just that!  

Then my brother texts me “you should watch Chasing Waves on Disney+.  it’s about Japanese surfers.”  So I watched the first 10 minutes and was surprised!  Just in the first 10 minutes, I saw so many surfers I know.  Hiromichi Soeda is a legend!  

Then Tokura-san comes on next!  I was screaming to my TV “OMG, Tokura-san!”  This man is my teacher, mentor, and my friend.  If it wasn’t for Tokura-san, I would probably be unemployed or homeless.  Or worst, I might even be in jail.  Tokura-san encouraged me to chase my dream to surf as a living.  Thirty years ago, that was like a joke to most people, but not for us.  I can’t wait to watch the rest!  

TO HONOR THE PAST, TO PERSUE A DREAM, TO FUEL THE SOUL.  I love it all!

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide