BackDoor/BigRights

169

Clearing off the desktop again.

This one was a few years ago at Big Rights.  I remember jumping off Mayuki, paddling towards the lineup, then this huge freak set comes right to me.  I took off super deep, angled right into the barrel, and got one of the best barrels of my life.  Normally I would just go in after that, but I stayed out for 3 hours that day and got 10 more like this.  These are the kind of days you will never ever forget.  The only thing I forgot was who took this photo.  But thank you from the bottom of my heart!  

Hiro-san left but I’m sure he didn’t forget all his perfect rides.

I remember my last beautiful night of 2022 with my Little Princess.  It was the best way to end an amazing year.  

I’ve known Kaiborg for a very long time.  Even before he was the enforcer at Backdoor/Pipeline.  I use to love to surf with him because everybody was so scared of him that they would paddle in.  I remember some of my Japanese friends would freeze when they saw him.  It’s like they saw a ghost.  Haha.       

Double the rainbow is double the pleasure…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide