Drinking and Surfing

97

I took my student surfing for 10 days straight.  The first 9 days, he slept early and didn’t drink alcohol.  He was sharp, progressing, and very alert.  BUT, he decided to drink alcohol and sleep late that night on the last day of our Boot Camp.  The next morning, he paddled out to the totally wrong spot, he had a hangover, he smelt like alcohol, and he was basically 30% of what he was the past 9 days.  I was observing the effects of alcohol.  And from my observations, it didn’t look good.

And while we were surfing, he realized he put his leash on incorrectly.  OMG!  After seeing all of that, it made me realize that alcohol and surfing doesn’t mix well. I scolded him and hope he’ll never do that again…

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide