It was still dark when we arrived at Haleiwa this morning. The contest didn’t start until 8am so we had an hour to catch some waves. Of course I didn’t tell my student how big the waves were, I just told her to hurry up and get ready.
When the waves get overhead, Haleiwa has power! We went to the outside and she caught 3 sets! She wanted to ride more but I said that’s enough. But I really wanted to say thank god you’re alive. Haha.
It was still 7:30am but this girl was already the happiest girl of February 7th in the world. She was glowing with the biggest smile all day long.
Then it was time for the contest. It was weird because normally the beach would be fully packed with spectators, but not this year.
Seth won his first heat so I was the happiest man in the world. Then he lost his second heat so I became the saddest man in the world. I get so sad and depressed when the kids lose. I think I hurt more than them. The drive around the island back home felt numb.
We ended up driving a hundred miles today. Tomorrow we might drive another hundred miles looking for waves. Goodnight.
