Monk Territory

95

This morning the North shore was the best so we went to Laniakea.  The waves and conditions were perfect for another day of competition.  The 2 girls did great again!   

After surfing the East side for the past 3 days, this was a huge change.  The water on the North shore feels heavier, cleaner, and has a lot more energy.  

And a lot more nature too.  This monk seal was hanging out in the lineup.  You could tell we were in his territory.  

This was the only surfing photo I got today.  I was surprised how brave my student was.  She didn’t hold back on this big wave.  Very impressive.  

Then she caught her last wave from the outside peak all the way to the white sandy beach.  Her best surfing performance till this day.    

9am and 100% content.  That’s what the North shore does to you.  And of course, a very happy drive home.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide