I woke up at 3am and noticed the buoy readings were kind of big. I thought it was a good day for Mokuleia but when we got there, it was way too big. Then I had to think of another place to surf and I had an idea.
So we headed to guess where? Waimea Bay! I told my student “let’s paddle out, sit in the channel, and try to get a wave.” She was completely silent from the car all the way to the ocean. I was laughing inside because she was freaking nervous.
We passed the shorebreak which was pretty big. I told her not to talk and just keep silent and try to connect with the ocean. BUT, when I say go, you better go.
We sit right inside the boil where the waves break. A set comes and she paddles. WIPE OUT!!! OMG!
She comes up laughing. This was the ice breaker! After this, she catches 5 waves all to herself. We paddle in, pick some precious shells, and recollect that amazing session. Surfing Waimea Bay is magical. This is where Eddie Aikau surfed, this is where my stepdad Jose Angel surfed, and this is the most famous spot in the world. I haven’t paddled out there in 15 years so today was a treat. My little red magic 6’1 was working so good and I haven’t felt that kind of speed in a while.
We checked Haleiwa on the way back to town. Looked so calm and beautiful compared to Waimea Bay.
Then checked out Diamond Head later. There was no way we were going to surf after our amazing session at Waimea. Both of us still on an adrenaline rush, still smiling, still laughing, and nothing else mattered. A day in the history books for my brave student…
