After surfing a secret spot early this morning, we checked Haleiwa on the way back. We were already totally satisfied but now it was time for more Boot Camp.
Haleiwa is always crowded but if you know how the waves break and how the current flows, you can use Mother Nature to your advantage.
So I send my student out. I’m on the beach videoing and commentating. Watching every single move, paddle, and ride. And I always have a lot to say. Haha.
But today, this girl surprised me by surfing so good. She waited in the perfect place, caught some nice waves, and rode it perfectly.
And even doing cutbacks. Pretty amazing because just a few years ago when I took her to Haleiwa, she was lost and afraid. Now you can see the confidence.
She came out after a perfect session smiling ear to ear. And the ride back to town was a very happy one for her. We picked up her new board from Trinx so tomorrow is going to be very interesting.
