Started the morning off with Rikita-san. Surfing is something you will never forget. Even after 4 years without surfing, you might be a little wobbly on the first few waves, but once your muscles remember how to surf, it comes back really fast.
I use to take Rikita-san surfing at 8am before covid. But ever since the lockdown, sunrise surf is mandatory for me. So that means it’s mandatory for everybody.
If you surf late, this is what you have to deal with. Look how many surfers are in the lineup, and look how many surfers are getting ready to paddle out. No thank you!
Immediately after Round 1, Round 2 was at Diamond Head. I think this was the best day of the year so far.
After taking this girl here on the wildest and windiest days, today was too easy.
If you want a beautiful photo, get a red surfboard and wear a white bikini. It never fails.
Then Round 3 was back to Bowls with Toshimi-san. The wind was onshore so the waves had lots of power.
30 rides later, we ended the amazing session.
Today felt like Summer. Warm weather and epic surf! I just walked into my house and when I passed by the mirror, I could only see a shadow. I’m so dark!!!
