Another perfect morning to be in Hawaii. Sunny, cool, and lots of waves!
Watching Hiro-san catching waves on his own is super cool. Now we take turns riding waves and I can watch him from the front, instead of the back. And of course, I’m yelling “GO, GO GO!”
This swell is really strong. This is the 4th day of waves and it’s looking like the whole next week will be really good!
After riding a big set at Haleiwa the other day, it was time to come in. While riding it all the way near the shore, I had a flashback. This is where I caught my very first wave of my life! That was 48 years ago and I still remember it like it was yesterday. 48 years of love and counting…
