Hati Hati and Kid Smokers

96

My students always forget something important I taught them.  I always said over and over, “never ride a wave and look at me because you will hit me!”  But the adrenaline kicks in and what do they do?  Yes, they look at me!

Then they fall and think it’s safe, BUT, their board is heading straight for my face.  Scary! 

Yes, I had to block twice in the same day.  I think I need to wear a helmet!  

With these strong off shore winds, you can see a hundred rainbows in a session.  So natural, and so beautiful. 

If you’re old like me, you probably remember these right?  These are fake candy cigarettes.  As a 5 year old kid, I use to put these in my mouth, blow the smoke like a cigarette, and then eat it.  They still sell it in Japan, but you’ll never ever see it in Hawaii again.  So yes, even though I never smoked cigarettes before, I lied.  I smoked these. And I actually bought some back for the kids but think it’s not a good idea to let them smoke it…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide