Trying to capture different angles is exciting. If I was swimming with my swim fins on, this shot would be relatively easy to get. But I’m not swimming, I’m surfing. So paddling through a big hollow wave like this while duck diving with one hand is challenging. Sometimes the wave sucks me back over and I get pounded, but it’s always worth the shot.
And if one of my friends come flying by, I’ll take an even bigger risk because risk equals reward. This girl was stoked when I sent her this. So beautiful!
