
This morning I let the girls paddle out while I filmed from the boat. It was rocking so much that I was getting seasick. Yuck…

Don’t want to say where we surfed today because it was good and pretty empty. Hoping it’s the same tomorrow.

A perfect glassy day. Summer is here!

Round 2 was to Sandy Beach. Thought we’d do something different.

No surfboard and no fins. We were going to bodysurf!

Sandy Beach looked like a postcard today. Blue sky, white sandy beach, and crystal clear water.

This is where I got my very first barrel when I was 12 years old. Thousands of barrels and decades later, this is still my favorite place to be. It’s my roots…


