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Today something looked a little different.  Wow!  I found my new relaxing spot.  

Gonna drink a smoothie, read a book, and take a nap.  I might even spend the night there.  Do Not Disturb!  

Back in the early 1990’s, Tokura-san called me one day and said “hey, do you want to go on an Indonesia boat trip?”  Of course I said “yes!!!”  Come to find out, it was the first ever Japanese Indo Boat Trip so it was a very historical one.  I went with some of the most elite Japanese legend surfers.  I was the youngest guy on that trip and also it was the first time going to Indonesia.  I was basically a surf trip virgin.  I think I was 25 years old and that trip sparked my passion to explore.  I remember this particular time Tokura-san drove the sailboat and I remember thinking to myself “OMG, that is so cool!”  Ever since then, I must have gone on 20 or more boat trips, but this one was that started it all…     

We pulled up to some spots that nobody in the world ever heard of.  Totally empty lineups, including the best left barrel in the world, “Desert Point.”  Where ever we went, nobody was around.  Not a single soul on the beach and definitely not a  single surf camp around.  This year, I’ll be joining Tokura-san for a reunion tour.  This time, there will be people, there will be surf camps, and there will be air condition!  I can’t wait…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide