Free Ride Zen Moment

146

I woke up this morning totally sunburnt.  I wondered why and then I totally forgot about yesterday’s Round 2.

This girl wanted a challenge so the challenge was to surf way outside and try to catch the biggest wave she’s ever ridden at Diamond Head.  I’d say it was 80% success and 100% entertaining.  Haha.

This morning we paddle out super early again.  On my way out, I’m meditating the whole way.  A total zen moment.

To be a good surfer, you have to be able to choose the right surfboard for the right conditions.  In this case, the 5’11 Twin Fin was the perfect choice.  Good call girl.

Now everything is 3x alive!  Faster speeds, faster turns, and more sprays.  This girl is stoked.

In order to be a better paddler, you have to paddle.  So now I make the girls tow me in all the way to the beach.  Stronger muscles for them, and a time to relax for me.  Haha.

Came in and witnessed the most beautiful double rainbow.  Then I went back out for Round 2.

Met the coolest surf couple.  Just married in Hawaii so this surf session must be the honeymoon!  Haha.  Happy smiles.  More photos coming soon…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide