good morning. 6:30am and going surfing. there is no wind out here and i can hear the waves breaking at rocky’s. it’s still dark but i’m guessing 2-4′ and pretty dam good. it’s been a while since the waves have been good on the north shore. can’t wait…. have a nice day…
when i was driving out to the north shore with hayato yesterday, i was looking back in my car and wondering how the heck everything fit. 9 surfboards, bags, clothes, a cooler, food, and all kinds of other things all fit. i love my car…
driving by lani’s yesterday, i was glad to be out here. just the smell of the fresh air and the sound of the ocean makes me happy….
i walked into the dove house and satoshi was sitting in front of the light trying to dig out the rest of the vana. i bet you anything he was there for 4 hours straight. i told him not to touch it because the vinegar did the job, but he wouldn’t listen to me. and he’ll probably be doing the same thing again today….
then we had a small barbecue at the dove house. we stood in front of the barbecue for 2 hours eating, talking, drinking, and eating. i was so full after eating all those oysters, chicken, steak, corn, salad, and everything else. thank you tokura-san….
**and last, i just posted another youtube. it’s a slide show from the 2008 local motion surf into summer they held at bowls. the one seth and josh moniz kicked ass, and the one shark attack victim todd murashige won his division…
