Almost every morning I see this huge turtle swim right through the lineup. It’s very big and swims very slow. 
I have to bring my feet up because I feel like it wants to eat my foot. 
Early morning Bowls. Troy on the best wave of the morning. 
This is my favorite angle. Wish I were the one doing this turn. The past 2 days I’ve been out of sync. I waited almost an hour to get my last wave in. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. 
Localism is real at Ala Moana Bowls. If you’re a visitor, please don’t ride in front, or even behind of any local surfer. It’s bad manners and you won’t be welcomed anymore. 
Round 2 was with the girls at Diamond Head. Pushing the girls to do better and better each day. 
The can read the ocean better, ride the waves better, paddle better, and laugh louder. It’s pretty cool to watch from up top and hear the laughter from so far away. This is surfing…
