we pulled up to haleiwa at 8:30am after checking all the way down to mokuleia. nobody was out so when i got out there, i didn’t know how big the sets were until the first 6′ one caught me by surprise and i was done. then the second one pounded me on my head too. then i had to catch a wave in and paddle out again. that’s what surfing haleiwa is all about. you got to take your poundings. in fact, this morning was the first time in my life i was surfing haleiwa alone. only for 20 minutes but i got a few good waves so i was stoked… the current was as strong as it gets and riding a little 6’2 didn’t help. paddling, paddling, and paddling…
we passed by laniakea and oh my gosh!! the waves were 6-8′ and peeling perfectly across….
back to the dove house for a great after barbecue lunch…..
fighting the current at haliewa was hard work. and after a morning of hard work, a nice steak/chicken plate made from the dove house couldn’t be beat…. saiko!!
rocky’s in right out in front of the go-naminori house so i went to check it, even though i knew it was too big. there were 2 guys out there trying to surf it. i said trying… 8′ rocky point is not surfable. unless you call going straight on 8′ closeouts surfing….
**went to an evening surf on the east side at this secret spot. waves going off!! more about it tomorrow. i’m going to sleep. goodnight..
