Ocean>We

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Right in front of our resort was this beautiful beach.  The waves are usually small and clean, but on this trip, it was the total opposite.  Very big and challenging but the boys gave it a try.  It was only us out so it was we verses the ocean.  

Strong current in the inside but calm on the outside.  Big closeouts so we were dodging the waves and turtles.  I haven’t seen that many turtles in Indonesia before.  Now that it’s illegal to eat, you see them everywhere.

Kimura-san is 71 years old but has the energy of a 17 year old.  It was pretty scary watching him dive under 6′ waves breaking over his head.  And he wasn’t scared at all.  

Carter was finding the cleaner waves and ripping it.  The location of this surf spot was pretty magical.  Untouched Indonesia jungle!    

There was a poisonous sea snake on the beach when we were watching Kimura-san surf.  So Matsu carefully put it back in the ocean.  After he did that, we were “opps, Kimura-san is still surfing!!!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide