good morning. 6:30am aloha friday. the waves on the north shore came way down. pipe looks only 3′ right now but things will change soon. buoy 1 is 7 feet 19 seconds so the next big swell is on the way. town is in the waist high range and these light trade winds are making conditions pretty dam good everywhere. i’m surfing all day today. have a nice day and see you in the water…..
it’s pretty amazing how you meet people from all walks of life through surfing. surfing is my life and so are the people i meet. kimura-san and atsuko-san are like my family. if it wasn’t for surfing, i wouldn’t have met them. and if i didn’t meet them, i wouldn’t be the person i am today….
it was yakiniku seoul garden for dinner last night. the best korean yakiniku in town. if you don’t know where it is, just remember this, it’s next door to club femme nu. yeah, the strip bar femnu. and if you don’t know where i’m talking about, your lying… haha.. thank you kimura-san and atsuko-san for a great dinner and a great time…
**wanted to wish my friends carter and russ a happy birthday. let’s get together to celebrate soon!!![:?????????:][:?????????:]
