good evening. big waves still rolling into the north shore. i heard that sunset was the spot. i took a break from surfing today and stayed in town. got a few things to do this week but after it’s all done, i’m moving back out to the north shore again. town and country? surf, eat good food, and have fun with my friends around the world. i love this life. oh, wanted to say hello to garut. sorry bro, i’ve been busy. we’re having a barbecue on saturday so see you there. kamu chinta saya???? haha…
team okinawa is finally here!! kazuma(9) and shoki(13) jumped in to get wet at kewalo’s. it was head high for them and perfect. only 2 other guys were out. i got kazuma’s first ever wave ridden in hawaii on video. youtube coming soon…. wanted to welcome kazubo-san, takahashi-san, mago-san, kimura-san, kazuma, and shoki to hawaii. the waves are going to be good all week long….
when i see parents and their friends sitting on the beach cheering on their kids, it makes me happy. it’s something i didn’t have while i was a kid so seeing this is kind of touchy for me. i hope these kids appreciate all the love and support their getting. and if they don’t, uncle kirby will kick their asses…
i remember the first time i crawled out of the water at kewalo’s. it was freakin scary. vana, crabs, eels, and rusted fish hooks all in those rocks. abunai…
and one last thing. i want to thank calvin maeda and steinlager pure for the love and support. these beers will be in good hands… more on this oishi beer coming soon. but for right now, i’m going to drink one… or two… kampai[:?????????:]
