hello hello, what another great day of surfing.. checked v-land this morning around 9:30 and it was firing. got out there and had so much time that the time just flew by. next thing you know, it was 1pm. 2-4′ and some barrels on the inside. i went with suzuki-san and takumi-san. then seen almost every japanese staying on the north shore out there. it was a full on japanese @vland session… saiko!!
shoyu chicken plate for lunch from ted’s bakery. awesome after such a long session. i felt like taking a nap after…
then we checked pipeline/backdoor. only 3 girls out. oh, i mean 3 surfers out. those 3 girls on the beach were doing a photo shoot for japanese playboy magazine. i offered to be light man but they told me to go home. haha…
then we checked haleiwa at 2:30pm. 3′ and looked pretty fun. but after scoring perfect vland, we were over it… back to town….
if the north shore had waikiki right in front, it would be the number one travel destination in the world. but for now, we’ll just have to get use to the two best travel destinations in the world, that is only an hour apart. girls gone wild in waikiki…
end off the evening with some stand up paddling. what a great day in the ocean…
and for all you townies. diamond head was chest/shoulder high this evening at 5pm. i was so tired that i probably couldn’t even walk down the hill. tomorrow i’m surfing all dam day again. it’s going to be much bigger than today so i’m planning to get much more barreled than today. surf your dream…
**stay tuned for haleiwa, waimea bay, pipeline, and velzyland galleries on GO-NAMINORI.COM… CHECK IT DAILY…
