good morning. 6:30am saturday morning. chest high swell in town but south/east winds already on diamond head. bowls is clean but will probably be onshore soon. north shore is looking 4-6′ and pretty clean. the buoy is still pretty big so watch out for freak 8-10′ sets. 4 guys are out at pipe now. backdoor looking good. i’m heading out there. have a nice day….
big news!!! andy irons withdraws from 2009 WCT world tour. yeah, no andy irons, and no bruce irons on tour in 2009. that’s going to suck. 2 of the best surfers in the world and both from hawaii. now if kelly slater quits too, professional surfing will be finished. surfing needs their stars and andy and bruce were two of the biggest ones. hope they make a full comeback in 2010….
this is kazubo-san and kazuma-san the other day at kewalos. just wanted to say hello to everybody in okinawa. hello!!! and thanks for the emails. hope to see you guys soon….
hey guys, come feb. 11th, i’m going to get my new blackberry curve that i’ve been waiting for. from that day on, your going to see live shit. i mean, real time surf reports. keep posted…
**one last thing. it was wakita getting hurt the other day at pipeline, then yesterday, another japanese surfer got hurt out there. i don’t want to say his name because i don’t think his family in japan even knows yet. the 25 year old kid since i’ve known since he was 10 years old in the hospital being carefully watched. seeing him in the hospital last night suffering like that broke my heart. if it wasn’t for fellow surfers out there, he wouldn’t be with us. hey guys, please surf safe. the waves in hawaii are no joke and people are getting hurt everyday. watch out for everybody and don’t push your limits. i’ve been to queen’ hospital too many times and hate the feeling of waiting for the ambulance, or medevac helicopter bringing my friends in. that’s one of the worst feelings in the world… i’m just praying for a full recovery….
