A Forgotten Secret

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Another perfect morning with cool clouds and an amazing sunrise.

I paddled out to Bowls and it was so good!  Perfect chest high sets with the cleanest conditions all month.  I caught 2 really good sets and as I was paddling back out, I thought to myself “umm, with this swell and conditions, somewhere else must be good too.”  Then I remembered!  I caught a tiny inside wave and paddled my fastest back to my car, jumped in, and left the parking lot still dripping wet.

I totally forgot I have a boat!!!  I jump on Mayuki and went full speed to my secret spot.  I was so excited because I knew it would be good, and best of all, uncrowded.

I get there and nobody was out.  Good!  Then the first wave started to approach the lineup and it peeled like a perfect Indonesia wave.  Great!  This first wave was barreling the whole way as my heartbeat started to pump.  I grabbed my board, paddled to the lineup, and had the best session ever.  After one hour of consistent pumping point rights, I was content.  I love boat trips!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide