I was really looking forward to surfing this morning. I didn’t care how the waves were because I just wanted to ride something different. Going super fast on a twin fin for the past month I wanted to slow things down.
An amazing full moon lighting up the dark.
Paddling out towards the moon is my favorite. It’s so peaceful.
Waves were good again. Still chest high and still perfect conditions.
Rights were good too.
This 7’1 single fin shaped by Glenn Minami back in 1981 is magic. So easy to take off, so easy to turn, and so fun to ride. I feel like I went back into the 80’s again!
