If you go to Japan by yourself and paddle out to a local surf spot, you won’t be welcomed. I can guarantee that. But if you go to Japan and paddle out to a local surf spot with a local surfer, you well be loved. I was watching local surfer Harada-san showing my brother the way. That was so cool to see. 
OMG, broken board! Sorry Harada-san. I’m glad you can smile about it. Thank you again for your hospitality. 
I went to go watch the kids come in from a dive trip. It’s pretty cool to see them looking very experienced. 
So happy to see them taking care of their boat. I’m sure they understand that their boat is their lifeline so if you take care of her, she will take care of you. 
I just found an unopened box in my closet. It was filled up with SPICE Clothing T-Shirts! So stoked!!!
Coach Ben Aipa use to always tell me, “Kirby, every time you surf backside, take your board up to 12 o’clock on each turn because the judges love that.” That was 35 years ago and ever since, I can still hear him yelling at me “12 o’clock!” This ones for you Coach Ben. Photo by Todaheli.
