Lost and Expired

168

We were surfing at Bowls yesterday and a board came floating by.  The wind was so strong so I thought it must have come from Waikiki.  The surfer probably lost his board and swam to the beach because you would think it will get pushed in by the waves.  But, the wind plays a factor too so the strong winds actually blew back out to sea.  Thirty minutes later, I see a guy swimming from the beach all the way out to Bowls because he saw me with his board.  

He said he lost it at Rockpiles rights which is pretty far.  I don’t feel sorry for surfers that lose their boards if they don’t surf with a leash.  That’s life.  The lucky thing for him is he got to catch another wave in.  Haha.  

The government sent out free Covid tests to everyone.  I got mine yesterday in the mail.

I checked the expiration date it already expired back in January 2023.  OMG!  

I bought this surfboard from a lady who had it sitting in her garage for the past 40 years.  It’s treasure!  I took it to my friends factory to get it refinished.  You will be surprised to see who shaped this board.  It’s probably 50 years old and priceless!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide