Okagesama de

117

Surfed a really nice wave this morning.  Chest high and nobody out.  Lots of rides and lots of practice.  After that, I went up to hang out at the house my Grandpa built.  He built this house back in the 1960’s and it’s still so beautiful.  As you can see, it’s Japanese inspired.

My Grandpa put in a big glass window in the living room so they could see the green mountains and valley growing every day.  The glass is so big that sometimes birds try to fly through this window.

As you can see, my Grandparents were inspired by Japan.  There are shoji doors and windows in every room.  My Grandma loved it so my Grandpa built it.

This is my favorite place.  The lanai overlooking the Nuuanu stream.  Cool wind in the hair, fresh air from the valley, and the sound of water running down the stream.  It’s pure ZEN!

I always think about my Grandparents when I come here.  They worked hard, never complained, were kind, and I miss them so much.  Okagesama de…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide