Nias: POINT OF CHANGE

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Soon, a true documentary about the discovery of the island of Nias is coming out.  It’s going to be about the discovery, and also the change ever since.  It’s told through the eyes of a local girl that grew up in Nias and became the first female surfing champion.  It will be about the positives and negatives of what surf discovery involves.  I heard there is going to be never seen before footage of the first surfers who rode those perfect barreling rights.  Footage from Storm Riders and Asian Paradise.  I can’t wait to see it.

After coming back from Sumbawa and seeing what happened in the 30 years since the first guys surfed it, I can already sense the theme of this documentary.  Yes, there are positives and negatives.  I’ll get into that later but for now, imagine a group of surfers discovering your pristine and isolated island, then turning it into something you may not like.  Some will like it and some won’t.  Honestly, I didn’t like what I saw in Sumbawa.  I prefer it like it was 30 years ago…

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide