I had a great time surfing with Moriyama-san this morning. The conditions were absolutely perfect. Clean water and great surfing.
30 years of surfing experience so 30 years of happiness.
Moriyama-san caught a lot of waves and will be riding more and more in these coming days.
When we have our family dinners, the kids remember every single time I took them out on the boat. We always talk about it but I forgot 99% so luckily we still have the photos to relive the moment. If I didn’t have this photo, I would have totally forgot. But now, I remember everything. Isaiah with a fish he caught, and we took home and ate after.
Seth, Isaiah, and Kelia were helping me with the ice bath last night. They were very serious and really wanted me to succeed. All three of them were coaching me while I was in the freezing water. Then their Dad walked over and poured the cold water over my head. Then I had to get out ASAP! Haha. Thanks boys!
